Because I live in a temperate area of the globe, much of the “height” of summer produce doesn’t arrive here until quite late in the season. Last week at the farmer’s market, we scored some super fresh ears of corn. We’re talking mere hours after they’d been picked. I didn’t have them on my shopping list, but I had to have them. There is nothing like the sweet, crisp flavour of freshly picked corn.
When I was a kid, my parents grew bicolour corn in our small garden. My mother was adamant that the corn be picked no sooner then when the pot of water began to boil. If it was picked any earlier than that, the corn would quickly begin to lose sugar, a process I like to call starchification (FYI, not a real word). This is technically not true nowadays, though. Corn hybridization has made the sugars in some varieties of corn very high. In the industry, the higher sugar varieties are known as Sugary Extender (se) and Supersweet (sh2), which includes the infamous Peaches & Cream and my favourite, Honey ‘N Pearl. These varieties can be stored from as little as 2 days to as much as 10 days.
I still prefer to eat it as soon as I can get my hot little hands on it, or cook it and freeze for a later date, which is exactly what I did for this recipe. Obviously, frozen corn is cheap and abundant, so this soup could be made all year round. I’m a bit of a food snob though, and prefer my produce fresh (or frozen at the peak of freshness) and eaten as soon as possible.
As the summer draws to a close (tomorrow September 22 at 5:18 pm EDT!), I’d like to leave you with this final taste of those warm summer nights. But as the end of summer and the beginning of fall are the same day, I’m celebrating with a little bit of both. A light, summery soup served with some hot from the oven biscuits, perfect for cold fall evenings! They pair beautifully together, and these biscuits are versatile enough for any soup.
Corn & Black Bean Soup with Spinach & Feta Biscuits
1 Large Vidalia Onion (or other sweet onion)
3 cobs of sweet corn (cooked and kernels removed, which is about 4 cups of corn)
1 red pepper, chopped
1 Tbsp canola oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 19oz can black beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. salt
pepper to taste
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
4 key limes, juiced (or 1 regular lime)
1 L sodium reduced chicken broth (or homemade)
1 avocado, diced
1. Sauté onions, garlic and red pepper in canola oil until browned (you want that caramelization for flavour.) Add cumin, chili powder, salt and pepper.
2. Add beans & corn. Continue to sauté for another 5 minutes.
3. Add stock, bring to boil. Reduce to simmer. Add lime juice.
4. Add cilantro and stir in, removing from heat.
5. Serve with avocado and biscuits (recipe follows).
Spinach & Feta Biscuits
2 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp salt
Fresh cracked black pepper (to taste)
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup canola oil
1 egg
175g feta cheese, crumbled
200 g spinach, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup fresh basil, minced very fine
3 stalks green onion, chopped
1. In a large sauté pan, sauté spinach, garlic and green onions until softened. Add basil at very end and remove from heat.
2. Sift flour, baking powder and salt into a large mixing bowl.
3. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender.
4. Combine the buttermilk, oil and egg in a separate bowl. Whisk together until completely combined.
5. Combine the milk/egg mix with the flour. Gently, stir in the spinach mixture, feta cheese and pepper.
6. Spoon into greased muffin tin (should make an equal dozen).
7. Bake at 375°F for 22- 25 minutes.
8. Serve warm with your delicious soup.
Herfst. Automne. Autunno. Outono. Otoño. Fall. Autumn.
In other words, my favourite season of them all. Maybe it’s the scarves, or because I can wear my Ugg boots. Maybe it’s the changing of the leaves or the smell of woodsmoke in the air. Of the many reasons for loving Autumn, I know for sure that food is one of the biggest. Once summer begins to draw to a close, the lighter fare turns to richer, more complex kinds of food. Apples and pears are ripening, root and cruciferous vegetables are all over the farmer’s markets, pumpkins and other squash are beginning to show up. With the weather turning cooler, there’s more time to spend inside. Time you’ll need to make this recipe. Don’t be shy, it’s completely worth it. Making your own gnocchi dough is very fulfilling. Pasta without the machine!
Don’t worry, I’ll walk you through the whole thing.
Butternut Squash Gnocchi with Vegetables
2 Small Butternut squash (approximatle 2 lbs. all together)
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 cups flour
1/2 tsp. dried sage
1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped or torn
salt & pepper to taste
2 Tbsp butter
1/2 lb. brown crimini mushrooms, chopped
1 medium zucchini, sliced and quartered
1 clove garlic, grated
1/2 large sweet onion, chopped
2 tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup grated parmesan
1. Prepare squash. Peel, slice in half vertically, scoop out the seeds and place cut side down on an oiled baking sheet. Bake for 45 minutes in a 375°F oven.
2. Place 1 piece at a time into food processor. Pulse until a thick purée forms. Continue until all pieces are puréed.
3. In a large bowl, add squash, egg, salt & pepper. Mix together until completely incorporated.
4. 1/2 a cup at a time, add the flour. Stir until completely mixed before adding more. You may or may not need to use all 4 cups. The dough should be airy and light, not dense and hard. The perfect consistency will be achieved just after the dough has become less sticky. IE. It is still slightly sticky but the dough doesn’t stick to your hands too much.
5. When dough is ready, take out handfuls and roll out into long strips.
6. Cut 1/2 inch pieces off and place against the tines of a fork. This is not a necessary step, but it adds dimension to your gnocchi, and a place for sauce to settle.
7. When all your gnocchi is cut and ready to go, have a pot of boiling, salted water at the ready. Put handfuls at a time into the pot and wait for them to come to the surface. When they all begin to float, remove from pot with a slotted spoon and place in a colander.
8. While you are doing this, get the sauce ready. In a large saucepan, add garlic, mushrooms, zucchini, onion and butter. Sauté until all vegetables are softened. Add in gnocchi and tomatoes, sauté for 2 minutes.
9. At the very end, stir in the basil and place in bowls. Sprinkle with Parmesan and serve. A hearty dish to welcome my favourite season.
Every year, in September, the world of hops, malted barley, filtered and unfiltered water and yes, even fruit, descends upon the small city of Victoria, BC. Don’t know what I’m talking about yet? Beer silly.
The Great Canadian Beer Festival is held every year on the first weekend after Labour Day. It has been running since 1993 (17 years!), making it the longest running beer festival in Canada. It is also Canada’s only craft-beer only major festival. This was my 7th year attending. (I even attended the year I was pregnant, but I didn’t imbibe).
It’s become a customary stop in what is a busy season for food and alcohol here on Vancouver Island. There are quite a few festivals having something to do with food, wine, beer or all three during the end of summer/beginning of fall season.
Every year it is sold out within days of tickets going on sale. This is a happening place to be and no one wants to miss the opportunity to indulge in craft ales from all over the province, country and even the globe. Most of the beer and cider being sold at this festival is not available in local retailers, and so attracts a mish mash crowd of party animals and true beer connoisseurs. At $1.25 a token (some beers costing two tokens) it’s not the cheapest way to get your drunk on. It is on the other hand, the best way to try new and exciting beers you might never have had the opportunity to try otherwise.
Patience is key at the festival, as line ups are standard at the entrance, ATM machine, token booths, beer and food kiosks.
Even the Eastern sea board is getting in on the action.
There is fresh hops everywhere you go here, and some booths offer a place to loiter while you sip your 4 oz sample.
Huh huh huh…
A little entertainment. They get better as the afternoon rolls on, I swear.
And here is my favourite part of the Festival. Yes I know, it is the Beer Fest. But I always come back to my first love, food. This booth has special meaning to me. Besides being the best damn pulled pork sandwich this side of the Mississipi. I used to work for this guy. Well, he was my leader, anyway. One of the best chefs I have ever worked with, he inspired me with his love for local food. Working with him led me to have my own little love affair with this city’s many local farms.
We worked together at Spinnaker’s Gastro Brewpub. He fired me. I won’t go into details. It was a good thing that happened though, as it led me to another job catering for a local company with the other best chef I’ve other worked for at this place.
Every year I attend the festival, I can barely wait until I’ve tasted my first beer to get over to this booth and order up a pulled pork sandwich. The first year he was there, I went too late and they were sold out of pork. I’m not saying the beef brisket was bad, quite the opposite. I just wanted that pork sandwich people. If you’d ever had one, you’d know why. It’s simply gourmet in it’s simplicity. House smoked, no preservatives or additives and the sauce is made from scratch too. If I lived anywhere near the restaurant, I’d never fit back into my skinny jeans.
Mmmmm, meat. That’s what I’m talkin’ about. Nothing goes with beer, quite like BBQ’d Meat.
Thanks for posing guys.
It’s the kind of atmosphere where you meet a lot of people. People you may not have spoken to outside of festival grounds. Like these guys, or this guy:
Dude, are you old enough to be here?
It’s not a beer drinking festival without cops. Hey guys! Thanks for keeping me safe.
Like I said, there are a lot of line ups.
Especially, here.
But, not if you’re a guy. Then you get to use one of these….lucky.
Oh, and what was my favourite beer this year? As in years past, it has remained the same. Steamworks Great Pumpkin Ale. Oh how I love you, and miss you, and wish that you were available in my local beer store. Alas, I will have to travel to Vancouver to have you again. Better make it quick…that stuff sells out fast!
So until next year, Beer Festival. I’ll be thinking about you.
One of my favourite sources of protein is poultry. I think I’m not alone in this decision, but it’s not exactly a party up in here either. I don’t know too many people who could just eat chicken, and not any other kind of living protein source, but I could. To me, the humble little birds are a blank palette of flavour just waiting to be accented. There is so much you can do with those little guys.
Now, don’t get me wrong, I realize beef, pork, lamb, etc. all have countless variations in cut, flavour and texture. But I’ll tell you a little secret…I used to be a vegetarian. GASP! I know! For a while there in my early twenties, I ate no animal proteins. I worked at an amazing restaurant that served all locally sourced beef and chicken, but you wouldn’t find me eating any of it, no way. Let’s just say that after a few years of tofu, eggs and beans, my inner culinary goddess struggled free. I wanted some steak! Ribs! Chops! MEAT! And so, I went back to being an omnivore. I no longer eat meat everyday, like when I was living at home with my parents, but I do try to make meat dishes at least 3 times a week. This satisfies the husband, and also allows for wiggle room in the budget. Meat ain’t cheap around these parts.
And so it was last weekend, we found ourselves in the Cowichan Valley Meat Market (I did take pictures, but it was a no no, so I’m not posting them). This place is a carnivore’s dream. You crave it, they’ve got it. Every cut of the animal makes it to the coolers and it’s all locally raised, slaughtered and butchered. While I was perusing the aisles, I came across some of my favourite poultry, Cornish Rock Hens. I love that they are personal sized, everyone gets dark and white meat. No fighting over the thighs, no one complaining that all they got was breast. You all get your own, one bird each.
When I began my culinary training in high school, Cornish Rock Hens (or Cornish Game Hens) were the first dish I made for my parents. Stuffed with lemons and rosemary, they were a hit! This time, I’ve roasted them with a little seasoning and served them with my favourite end of summer salad, Insalata Caprese. If you can’t find Cornish hens near you, this recipe works just as well with regular old chicken too.
Prosciutto Wrapped Roasted Cornish Game Hens and Insalata Caprese
Serves 2 adults
2 Cornish Game Hens (aproximatle 1-2 lbs. each)
4 slices Prosciutto
Herbs to sprinkle (I used basil, oregano and sage)
Salt & Pepper
1. Clean the hens and pat dry. Sprinkle skin with herbs, salt and pepper. (You could rub a little oil or butter on as well, although the Prosciutto will add it’s own fat during cooking.)
2. Wrap Prosciutto around body, tucking ends under back and setting bird breast side up on roasting pan with removable wire rack.
3. Roast in the centre of a 375°F oven for about 1 hour. Or until a meat thermometer registers 185°F.
4. Allow to rest for 5-10 minutes before serving. You can serve whole, or if you have a timid carver, carve before serving.
Isalata Caprese (Tomato Bocconcini Salad)
1 180g tub of Bocconcini Pearls
4 Vine Ripened Tomatoes, cubed
1/4 cup basil, torn into small pieces
1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. Crema di Balsamico ( A sweetened condensed version of Balsamic Vinegar)
salt & pepper
1. Add all ingredients to a medium sized bowl, toss and allow to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.
To carve your Hens, start at the leg. Slice downward into the thigh, next to the body cavity. It should come away from the bone quite easily. Once the legs are off, slice through the breast near the wing and take those off too. Then start slicing through the breast, making little steaks. Don’t forget the “oysters’. These are little pockets of juicy dark meat in the back near where the thigh bone connects to the body. As a chef, I would always steal the oysters for myself when carving chickens. It is the chef’s payment for all the hard work!
Leftovers are rare in this house, but if someone in your family can’t polish off their own bird (a child maybe), try making a chicken salad spread for crackers. Easy to pack up and have for lunch the next day. Caprese salad does not save well, so I would recommend finishing that the night you make it. Happy Roasting!
I know I’ve been gushing recently about the amazing quality and quantity of local food available to me on this wonderful island paradise, but I’m not finished yet.
Last week my Mother, Alexis, a seasoned salmon fishing guide (now retired) and avid outdoorsy type (fair weather only thank you, unless money is involved), went on a leisure trip to what is known as the “Salmon Fishing Capital” of the World, Campbell River (my childhood home). This time of year, there is a little contest where a bunch of fisherman get out their row boats (no motors allowed) and hedge their bets on catching a 30+lb Chinook or Spring salmon. Those that are successful are garnered membership in the Tyee Club of British Columbia. Lucky!
Well, let’s just say my Mother is still waiting for her membership card. She did, on the other hand, catch a couple of Pinks (aka Humpbacks). I’m not one to be picky about gifts of fresh caught salmon. If you bring me a fish, I will feed you dinner. No questions asked. There has never been a lack of salmon in my life. As the child of a fishing guide, I grew up gnawing on smoked salmon still hot from the smoker. Those days are gone, but once in a while, I do get a chance to wet my rod tip for a chance of fighting the big one. Here I am a few years ago with my Mother, successful!
One of the recipes we always used when I was a kid, was a BBQ sauce recipe made almost entirely of butter and other condiments. It sounds totally unappealing when you look at the ingredients, but trust me, this is the only salmon sauce recipe you will ever need. It is divine.
To go along with our Supreme Seafood dinner, we also threw in a few locally raised oysters and a small side of peppers and beans from the farmer’s market. If you’re lucky enough to have access to fresh seafood, give these recipes a whirl, you won’t be sorry.
BBQ Sauce for Salmon
1/4 lb. butter
2-3 cloves garlic, grated (more if you want it)
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 Tbsp. Yellow Mustard
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp. ketchup
1. In a small saucepan, combine all ingredients and heat over medium low until combined.
2. Do not boil! It will seperate.
3. Apply sauce to fillets and BBQ until cooked to desired degree of doneness. This depends entirely on the size of your fillets. Ours were small (about 2-3 lb salmon).
4. Reserve some of the sauce for applying after cooking, or dipping if you’re feeling really indulgent.
Miso sauce for Oysters
Adapted from a recipe given to me by one Richard Breukers
1 16oz. Tub of oysters
3 Tbsp Japanese Mayo
1 1/2 Tbsp White Miso
2 tbsp. Mirin, Sake or Rice Vinegar
1. Mix all ingredients together add to large saucepan.
2. Add oysters and sauté for 7-8 minutes on medium high heat.
3. Serve immediately.
4. This sauce is much better on oysters on the half shell, but that’s not what I had at the time. For oysters on the half shell, apply a dollop of sauce to each oyster, bake in a 425°F oven for 7 minutes. Serve immediately.
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